Here are photos of when I made a baby t-shirt vest. The instructions are here at Sam Lamb. I first found out about this pattern from when A Bakers’ Dozen knitted some beautiful vests using the pattern.
I highly recommend the pattern, but if you are still learning as a knitter, be prepared to look up abbreviations and how to do many stitches and techniques. I spent a lot of time watching how-to videos online, as I had never tried some of the knitting techniques in the pattern. I’m so happy I did, because this makes a fantastic vest. I’ve already started a second one.
When I first started, I had to start over, because I was knitting in the round before I was supposed to. Then, I started over again (and again…), because I didn’t increase when I was supposed to along the way (etc.). It all turned out well in the end. I will say that with the second vest (in progress), I’ve started it over several times as well, due to skipping an increase somewhere (you can’t find the mistake or you mess things up going backwards to look for it). Just know that there are some rows with about 8 increase points per row. You’re bound to miss one if your concentration is elsewhere or you’re knitting on automatic pilot.
For the blue vest, I used Pound of Love yarn (Weight 4) and US Size 8 needles, since I had both on-hand. The pattern called for DK (double knit) wool, which is about Weight 3, as well as Size 7 needles (which I didn’t have at the time). Due to the larger needles and yarn, the first vest came out much bigger than tiny baby size. For the second vest, I’m using DK knit yarn and Size 7 needles, so it should fit a young baby when it’s done.
To help out people who are also using this pattern, here are the number of stitches you should have at the end of certain rows (after increasing). Usually after increasing, the number of stitches goes up by 8, as there are often 8 increase points in one row.
- R2 – 76 stitches
- R4 – 84 st.
- R7 – 92 st.
- R9 – 100 st.
- R11 – 108 st.
- R13 – 116 st.
- R15 – 124 st.
Here are some abbreviations/terms/notes that might prove helpful:
- CO – cast on
- PM – place stitch marker
- KFB – knit front & back
- K – knit
- P – purl
- Slip marker – move the stitch marker onto the knitting needle
- K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
- Turn work – go back the other direction and work the stitches you just knit
- St St – stockinette stitch – knit one row, purl the next on straight needles; keep doing knit stitch when knitting in the round
- Break yarn – cut yarn with scissors or break with your hands; you’re done with that piece of yarn
- Pick up stitches – Use a crochet hook for this. Put the crochet hook under the knitted edge and pull your yarn string through. (Please find a video online, as I’m probably not explaining this well.)
- DPNs – double-pointed needles
- BO – bind off
- When knitting the right armhole (non-button side) in the round, knit with the wrong side of the vest towards you
Above: You have to put stitches on extra yarn to use later.
Above: You can see a buttonhole on the left.
To help pick up stitches at even distances apart, I used stitch markers to divide up the area. Then, I used a crochet hook to pick up the same number of stitches between each stitch marker.
After picking up stitches, I transferred the stitches from the crochet hook to a knitting needle.
It can take a lot of double-pointed needles when you’re finishing the edge of the closed armhole (no buttons on that side).
The finished vest!
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The gathered strips of fabric
Pull the gathers tight and form a flower.
Pin the ends right sides together and then sew.
Press flat.
Attach to the t-shirt.
Cut out a piece of fabric larger than the button.
Gather the circumference of the fabric, put the button inside, and pull the thread tight to close.
